Some painting complete

I have finished painting the foredeck, the anchor pulpit, the handrails, the foredeck side of the Portuguese bridge, and the bulwarks. Pretty much, all of the fore deck is finished with paint. I did this on Friday, and due to some family things I have to do this weekend, I wont be able to finish the wheel house side of the Portuguese bridge and the outer deck of the wheelhouse until sometime this week. The weather forecast for this week is on the stormy side, so Ill be able to take off work the 1/2 day I need to finish painting what I did not get finished on Friday.

The fore deck was a lot of work to paint, and used about a gallon of paint. The paint mix is 5:1, so in terms of product used, I sprayed about 1.25 gallons. That might not seem like a lot of paint, but it is a fair amount given the paint type. The fore deck and handrails is a really cut up area to paint, and was a pretty physical day for me. At the end of the day, I was feeling the workout. This is one of those deals that you cant stop once you get started, so no matter how worn out you get, its best if you suck it up and finish.

Because I decided to paint the hand rails, I had to scaffold the outside. I have a rolling scaffold I used, but that required many trips up and down the scaffold as I moved around the boat. The rolling scaffold does not fit between the boat and the barn wall, so I had to set up a 16 walk board and a ladder to do that area. Slow, thoughtful movements are the key when working 12 off of the ground lugging around a full paint pot, air hoses and safety clothing. My basic paint plan was the same as all the other painting I did which involved getting a decent first layer of paint on the surfaces, letting it tack up a bit, then come back and apply a second and third coat. With the handrails, the exposed frames of the bulwark, the bulwark cap and underside, the anchor pulpit, hatch, and cabin ventilation tubes, there was a lot of trimming in that had to be done. All of the fixtures that I just mentioned not only required trimming, they also added some square footage. Most of this area was painted at odd angles, on my hands and knees, bent over while avoiding the roof trusss. I now have a better understanding on why certain boats are more expensive to build than others, and why items such as handrails, bulwarks, and the Portuguese bridge add costs to a job. Im so glad this job is completed.

Youll notice a cubby hole on the port side of the anchor pulpit. That recess is for my wash down hose connection and a connection for an air hose. Ill explain the air hose connection at some other time, but I felt like I wanted an air hose on the bow of the boat for maintenance.

The handrail is made of 1 1/2" stainless steel with 1" stanchions welded to the bulwark cap. I had intended to hand polish this rail and leave it as shiny stainless. Like I said in earlier post, I had serious doubt about being able to get the polishing job done well enough where the handrail would not be a constant battle with rust. I think I made the right choice in painting it. Im also happy knowing that when the rail gets chipped, it will not rust quickly due to the stainless.

The paint scheme Im doing on the boat is pretty similar to the picture at the top of the blog. Because of the Portuguese bridges white color, I carried that paint line around the outside of the hull. Its nice seeing some more shiny paint on the hull as I look up at it from the shop floor.

Like I said above, Ill finish inside the Portuguese bridge this week. Now that all this paint work is completed, I can get some more finish work done while the boat is in the barn. Ill be able to install the hatch, install the dorade boxes, install the Portuguese bridge door leading to the foredeck, and install the wood cap on the Portuguese bridge. Ill also be able to install the deck plates for the two water fills, and the gray water pump out station for the 50 gallon tank located in the guest cabin. I will install the bulkhead fittings for the anchor winch and the door on the pulpit.

Im not to happy about the quality of the finish on the deck. There was a fair amount of grit on the deck from the other painting, so Ill have to take a close look at a re paint. My goal was to get the deck protected with that tough paint Im using, and thats what I did. I plan on doing a non skid deck treatment, but that will not happen until launch time. Given the additional coatings I will be doing on the deck, I think Ill let it go until launch now that it has two coats of acrylic urethane and it can now handle weather and finish work.

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Painting is complete

Like the post title says, the hull is finished painted.Whoo Hoo!!!!

My last post dealt with the port side of the boat, and this post deals with me wrapping up the starboard side of the hull and making a repair on the port side. But the jist of this post is that the paint work is completed, and I can put the paint pot back on the shelf until late August or early September.

I had to make two repairs on the port side of the hull. I prepped the two areas that needed to be re painted but I did not spray them until I sprayed the starboard side. The repairs were a result of a severe orange peel condition up by the bulwark, and a paint pot failure below the lower rub rail. The paint pot failure was some issue of the feed tube not  getting primed correctly or air locking up on me which caused the paint to not flow or atomize correctly. This below the rub rail area looked pretty rough, so I sanded it back smooth. The orange peel issue by the bulwark was a result of  me not leaving well enough alone.When I was painting this area of the hull a few weeks ago, I had lost track of how many coats I had sprayed on this area. I was unsure if I had two or three coats. The area looked good, and I should have left it alone, but being the rookie I am, I sprayed what I thought was a third coat. The prior coat had already dried, so when I applied the not needed coat, it instantly turned to crap and got a severe case of the orange peel. I started to wet sand it out, but the area was too big, and it was going to be faster to take it back down with the DA sander and re paint. Ill have to wet sand out the parting line, but that will be an easy almost relaxing job. Both areas now look good and Im glad I made the repairs. 

I cant really take a picture of the starboard side as there is only four feet of room from the barn wall the the boat. But I can tell you that the starboard side now looks like the port side, which is shiny and finished. I treated the starboard side the same way which entailed sanding the hull to 320 grit, spot priming some areas, painting the rub rail, then spraying three coats of green acrylic urethane. Ill have to do some wet sanding and polishing on a few areas, but I wont do any of that until next Spring at the launch site. Ill probably end up polishing and waxing all of the hull, but there again, none of that work will happen until next Spring or Summer just before launch.

I am sort of keeping a half baked schedule roaming around in the back of my head. While Im a week or so later than I wanted to be on finishing the painting, the painting is now complete and I can focus on moving forward. The next step is going to be getting her off of the building cradle. I found a dually truck axle for the rear of the boat and a truck steering axle for the front of the boat. No work is needed regarding the steering axle, but the dually is going to need some work before I set the boat down on it. One side of the axle is locked up and will need bearings and races, and I need to take hard look at the tires. I only have to move the hull about ten miles to the launch site, but the tires are so dry rotted, that I have my doubts about them. Once I have the bearings in them, I might bring the assembly up to the truck tire shop that sells me rubber for my trucks and see if they cant some used skins on the wheels. A halfway decent set of used rubber make me feel better about things than the dry rotted tires now on the axle.

The other reason I need to get her off of the building cradle is that I need the metal from the cradle to build a gantry and the frame for welding together the wheel house and salon. I have over 100 of 4" I beam in the cradle and quite a bit of 1/4" plate. All that will be put to good use for a gantry and frame work for the wheel house job, and will also mean I will not have to spend any money building those two items.

I need to be assembling the wheel house and salon by early July, and needed to be finished with the welding by the middle of August. Finished with the welding means having the hand rails for the salon top welded in place, the engine room exhaust funnel welded in place, the brackets for future paravanes figured out and welded in place, the mast step figured out and welded in place, the pad eyes for the mast figured out and welded in place, lifting rings figured out and welded in place, brackets for the yet to be built dink figured out and welded in place. Im sure Im forgetting a few odds and ends, but you get my drift in that time is running out. Having all this completed by mid August gives me a few weeks to finish painting the salon and wheel house, which puts me in to September, which is about when I need to be picking a date to move her to the launch site. The boat yard Im bringer her to gets busy in late October, so I want all of my work completed before that time and the high end yachts start piling up around me which will cause me trouble with painting.

Cheers

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Rigging Complete

Click photos to enlarge.  Click again to enlarge even more.

There are many ways to rig a Navigator and there are many different sail plans to choose from.  Described below is the rigging I chose to use for the Gaff Yawl Rig that I selected to build.  I mostly followed the plans, but also borrowed many of the really good ideas from Kevins Slipjig rigging videos.  Thanks, Kevin!  Nearly everything works very well. Where it didnt, I will attempt to describe what I should have done. I will also continually update this article as I fine-tune the rigging.

I provided links to Duckworks for the hardware I purchased to help save future Navigator builders time and effort should they also choose to order their rigging there.  I purchased nearly all my rigging, and my sails, from Duckworks because they are helpful, fast, convenient and inexpensive.

Gunter Main in Red vs Gaff Main in Green

Speaking of sails, if you order your sails from Duckworks, be careful to select the desired mainsail option.  If you want to build the Gaff Yawl that I am illustrating here (see plan sheet NV12) select their Gaff Yawl main. Duckworks also offers a  Gunter Yawl main which is a little different. Their "Gunter Yawl" main is the same sail as the Standing Lug main, but with additional eyelets along the luff to lace the sail to the mast.  Note that the sails have a different shape. The Gaff mains gaff angle is greater and it uses a horizontal conventional boom.  The Gunter main has a nearly vertical gaff angle, and the foot is cut straight and angled to serve as a vang for a sprit boom, but it has also been used sucessfully with an angled conventional boom.

OK, lets start at the bow and work our way aft.  Well begin with the bobstay.

The bobstay is made from a length of 1/8" SS cable with 1/8" thimbles and sleeves swaged on both ends.  The SIT-2001 small swage-it tool made swaging easy. The bobstay connects to the Bow Eye with a small shackle.  The arrangement leaves plenty of room for attaching the trailer winch hook.

The other end of the bobstay attaches to an Oblong Eye Plate on the under side of the bowsprit with a RL-245S shroud adjustor. Another Oblong Eye Plate is located on the upper side of the bowsprit to attach the roller furler using another small shackle.  The two eye plates are bolted together through the bowsprit.  A 3/8" fairlead guides the roller furling line.

The mast on a Navigator is freestanding, but shrouds and a wire luff are used to tension the jib tight enough to prevent the luff from sagging.  I lash my jib to the roller furler with a simple rope lashing.  A lashing is quick to rig, inexpensive, and provides plenty of tension and adjustability.  No need for blocks here. The lashing is tightened until the shrouds go "boing" when tapped with a metal tool.  Ideally, the jib should be positioned as low as possible.

Bow chocks are mounted on either side of the bowsprit.

When using a roller furling jib with a wire luff, there is no need for a jib halyard or a separate headstay. The wire luff serves as the forestay.  At the head of the jib is a swivel for the furler, a shackle, and a boom bail.  The boom bail is one I had lying around, but a good alternative would be a RL-525-T or RL-425-H hound.  The shrouds are made of 1/8" ss cable with swaged thimbles on both ends. They attach to bent RL-320 tangs on either side of the mast with small shackles. The small line immediately below that loops through the pad eye  is the lazy jack/topping lift for the boom.

Note that when adding a roller furler to the jib it may be necessary to move this hardware higher up the mast from the location shown on the plans to account for the added space required for the furler.  I recommend not drilling this hole in the mast until after test fitting the jib and its associated hardware.

The lower ends of the shrouds attach to the hull with RL-245L shroud adjustors attached to RL-397 chain plates and RL-344-B covers.

The peak halyard controls the angle of the gaff, from horizontal to vertical.  Instead of tying mine to the gaff with rolling hitch, mine attaches to a cable bridle on the gaff with a carabiner, then goes through a swivel block attached to the mast with a RL417-S boom bail.  This swivel block can abrade the mast under certain conditions so I added a strip of leather to protect the mast.  The bridle is made from a length of 1/8" ss cable with loops on both ends and two SD-081200 pad eyes on the gaff to hold it in place.  The bridle needs to be as tight as possible and long enough to accommodate two reef points.  It goes roughly from the middle of the gaff to the top of the gaff. This bridle is called a "Gunter".  Having one changes the rig from a Gaff Rig to a Gunter Rig.  The Gunter allows the gaff to be raised and lowered while remaining vertical, which makes reefing safer, quicker and easier.  Without a Gunter, and before the sail could be reefed or de-reefed, first the gaff would have to be dropped, the peak halyard repositioned higher or lower on the gaff, and the gaff raised again. With a Gunter, the gaff stays up the entire time.  The gaff is lowered a bit, the reef tied in, and the gaff tightened back up.  The Gunter and gaff jaws also prevent the gaff from flailing around or inverting when its lowered.

The throat halyard raises and lowers the gaff.  It attaches to a rope bridle at the gaff jaws with a carabiner. The plans show a pad eye in lieu of the bridle.  Use a bridle instead.  Because the gaff sets nearly vertical, a pad eye would bind between the gaff and mast, damaging the mast.  Two SD-081205 heavy duty pad eyes are located on the gaff to attach the main sail, one at the throat and one at the head.  I keep the main sail lashed to the gaff and roll the sail around the gaff for transport.

The throat halyard then goes through a RL-308-B cheek block mounted on the mast.  The cheek block is mounted off center (to port) so the halyard can go up the center of the mast and down on the port side.  The cheek block works much better than using a double block for the throat and peak halyards atop the mast.  This arrangement could use a little improvement.  I find I cant get as much tension on the throat halyard as Id like, so I plan to eventually convert this into a two-part tackle arrangement.

The halyards and furler line go through the deck with RL-49P fairleads. Note that the furling line makes a 90 degree turn here through its fairlead.  A block would be nice to have here but I havent been able to find a suitable one yet. The arrangement works but would be better without the added friction and abrasion.  I know its more traditional to run the roller furling line along the port side deck, but I like all my controls located near the aft centerboard case for safety and convenience.

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The halyards and furling line then go through three RL-2040 deck blocks on the front seat and are then led aft. Also in this area is an oblong eye plate for the boom vang, and a RL-707-AD double cheek block for the centerboard lift.  Good thing I added reinforcement under this area of the front seat!

The centerboard lifting line attaches to the centerboard with a RL-702-A becket block and two RL-320 tangs. The tangs were easily bent to the shape shown.

Ellies control center.  Port to starboard are throat halyard, roller furler, main sheet, centerboard lift (cleated), and peak halyard.  The halyards and furling line go through RL260S cam cleats although a  horn cleat or clam cleat would have worked just as well.  The cam cleats work well for tensioning the halyards. The throat halyard in particular requires a lot of force to tension it tightly. The downside of using cam cleats for halyards instead of horn or clam cleats is the risk of the lines getting inadvertently released causing the gaff to fall. I tie a stop knot in the halyards to prevent this. [UPDATE: I later switched to home-made jam cleats for the halyards] I can raise, lower, furl and control all three sails, and the centerboard, while remaining safely seated in the cockpit.  I cant over emphasize how safe and convenient this is.

Mainsheet tackle consists of an RL-850 swivel camcleat and RL-306-DF fiddle block mounted on the aft centerboard case top. On the boom is a RL-334-S boom bail, a shackle and a RL-304-A becket block. This arrangement works very well. I find the 3-part tackle to be perfect.  The aft portion of my centerboard case top is permanently fastened in place. The forward portion is removable for access to the centerboard. First time out I noticed a slight amount of water seeping through the seam from water sloshing around within the case. I solved that by making a rubber gasket seal.

Jib sheets lead through SD-082615 fairleads near the shrouds [oops, the fairleads should have been located 120mm aft of B4 per plan sheet NV11], and another SD-082615 and RL-260-S cam cleats mounted on douglas fir pads so the jib sheet can clear the cockpit coamings and angle back toward the cockpit at about the same angle as the mainsheet.

I also added non-skid strips to the side decks.  Not necessary.  They never get used as everyone prefers to step directly onto the seats instead.

The goose neck fitting is an RL-328-C with a 3/8" pin.  I drilled an oversized hole in the boom, filled it with epoxy/silica/fiberglass, and re-drilled it to 3/8".  I located my gooseneck fitting 6" higher up the mast from the location shown on the plans.  The plans have the boom located right at face level.  When located 6" higher, the boom clears my head with a nod instead of a crouch.  Much improved and highly recommended.

The Boom vang has a RL-378-A double fiddle block at deck level, attached to the oblong eye plate with a small shackle and carabiner.  The boom end consists of a D-100 block/cleat, a RL-304-A single block, a RL-334-L boom bail and a small shackle.  I wish I had led the boom vang line back to the cockpit too.  [Done. Substituted an RL-304-A for the D-100 and led the line back to the cockpit to a cleat.  Much better.]

The mainsail clew is attached to the boom using a SD-081205 heavy duty pad eye, 1-1/4" ring and a SD-043030 cleat.

Reefing hardware is similar. They consist of SD-081200 pad eyes, SD-191410 rings and 3" cleats.
Here are the reefing lines in the stored position.

And here they are in the reefed position. The reefing line, attached to the ring, loops around the underside of the boom to the opposite side, goes up through the eyelet in the sail, back down through the ring, and to the cleat.

The topping lift/jackstay line attaches to a SD-081200 pad eye on the port side of the boom, goes through another SD-081200 pad eye on the mast [recently replaced by a small fairlead], and back down to a 3" cleat on the starboard side of the boom. It too, is readily accessible while seated in the cockpit.  When I lower the mainsail, the topping lift/jackstay line supports the boom and captures gaff and mainsail, preventing it from spilling all over the deck.

The rudder is attached using RL-490-G pintles and gudgeons. The rudder uphaul and downhaul lines are led through identical RL-340 cheek blocks one on either side of the rudder head. An SD-082010 fairlead on the downhaul line protects the bottom of the rudder head from abrasion.  Also visible is the SD-520010 drain plug.

The rudder uphaul line leads to a SD-043030 cleat on the port side of the tiller. The downhaul line leads to an auto release clamcleat on the starboard side of the tiller.

The mizzen mast has three SD-043030 cleats at its base. One for the halyard, one for the snotter, and one for the topping lift. The mizzen sheet leads through a RL-260-S cam cleat, similar to the jib sheets.

Atop the mizzen are two blocks, one for the halyard and one for the topping lift. They are RL318 spin straps and RL-205 swivel blocks.

The snotter leads through two SD-081200 pad eyes. A stop knot is tied in one end, thread it through and cleat it off. This arrangement is simple and works just fine.

I built my mizzen mast as a "rotating mast".  Past experience with sprit booms and snotters has taught me that if the mast cannot rotate, when the sail is eased out, the snotter will put considerable pressure on the pad eye on the mast and something will break.  To allow the mast to rotate, I rounded the bottom of the mast and lined the mast partner with leather and allowed sufficient clearance so the mast fits loosely within the partner.    

Two more SD-081200 pad eyes attach the mizzen sheet and mizzen clew with carabiners and the topping lift.

The mizzen tack attaches to yet another SD081200 pad eye with a carabiner. [Update: I replaced the carabiner with an s-hook, with the pad eye side of it pinched closed. It is much easier to release the tack for furling now]  The plans show a downhaul line that goes through a pad eye on deck to a cleat. That arrangement would have prevented my rotating mizzen mast from rotating.

The boomkin has a SD081200 pad eye and SD-191410 ring.

It took a considerable amount of tweaking to get my new Suzuki 2.5 outboard to clear the transom in the raised position using my Duckworks motor mount. Mine is the 15 degree model. The Suzuki 2.5 comes with a bracket that only allows the motor to be raised when the motor is pointing forward. Facing forward, the power head hits the transom so I had to remove this bracket to allow the motor to be raised on its side.  I also had to add the thickest possible wood block to shift the motor aft as far as possible, and I had to shift the motor as far starboard as possible. I finally got it to clear - barely.  Other outboards have different sized and shaped power heads that may make them easier to fit using this mount. An adjustable mount might be a better choice as well.

 

Here are my mast carriers. They were constructed from leftover 2x4s, scraps and some brackets I had lying around. It works very well and it requires no modifications to the boat. The forward one rests on the foredeck and ties into the forward cleats.  The aft carrier rests on the side deck and is held down with a short line that goes through the cam cleat for the mainsheet. Foam pads protect the deck and foam-lined notches hold the lashed down main, mizzen, boom and gaff.

Setup time at the boat launch takes about 30 minutes.  Here is a time-lapse video.

I hope these examples help someone. If you have any questions or comments, please post them below. Feedback is always appreciated!

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